Decoding the new tea classification regulations in 2025, revealing how Pu'er tea subverts the six major tea categories
On the ancient tea mountain in Mengku Town, Yunnan, tea farmers are carefully picking tender leaves from thousand-year-old trees. After sun drying, rolling, and fermentation, these leaves may become golden and translucent raw tea or red and mellow cooked tea. However, their identities have caused a decades-long "Rashomon" in the international tea industry - which of the six major tea categories does Pu'er tea belong to?
In 2023, the new "Tea Classification" standard issued by the International Organization for Standardization (ISO) classified cooked Pu'er tea as black tea and raw tea as green tea. This classification caused an industry earthquake.7 。However, China's national standard for Pu'er tea (GB/T 22111-2008), which was implemented in 2016, has already listed it as an independent tea category.2 。这Behind this contradiction of "domestic independence and international separation" is the interweaving of Pu'er tea's unique craftsmanship, history and market value.
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The "Black Gold" on the Ancient Tea Horse Road
The history of Pu'er tea can be traced back to the Eastern Han Dynasty. Its predecessor, "Wu Hou Yizhong", traveled with the horse caravans across the Ancient Tea Horse Road and became a daily necessity in the Tibetan area where "one day without tea is a stagnation"1. During the Ming Dynasty, Pu'er tea became a tribute to the imperial court due to its "steamed into balls" pressing process and was officially named1 。
The birth of post-fermentation technology
In 1973, Yunnan tea growers borrowed the black tea fermentation technology and invented the Pu'er tea rapid aging process. This technological breakthrough upgraded Pu'er tea from "border tea" to "drinkable antique" and gave rise to the collection value of "the older, the more fragrant"5 。
Geographical indications identification
In 2008, Pu'er tea was recognized as a geographical indication product by the General Administration of Quality Supervision, Inspection and Quarantine of the People's Republic of China. It was specified that its raw materials must be large-leaf sun-dried green tea from Yunnan, and its production areas are limited to 639 towns in 11 prefectures and cities.1 。This certification completely distinguishes it from other teas.
Uniqueness of raw materials
Pu'er tea uses the Yunnan large-leaf variety (Camellia sinensis var. assamica), which has a tea polyphenol content of up to 33.8%, more than twice that of ordinary small-leaf varieties14. This high content of tea polyphenols provides the material basis for its later aging.
The disruptive nature of fermentation technology
- Raw tea: Through natural aging, "post-fermentation" is achieved. Microbial communities (such as Aspergillus niger and yeast) continue to decompose tea polyphenols during storage, forming a unique “plum flavor”9 。
- Ripe tea: Artificial pile fermentation allows tea leaves to transform rapidly in an environment of 45-65℃, increasing the theabrownin content by 3.6 times, and the tea soup changes from yellow-green to red and thick14 。
Cross-border nature of chemical composition
Studies have shown that the theabrownin content of Pu'er cooked tea is 3 times that of other black teas, while the ester-type catechin content of raw tea is 216 times that of green tea.14 This difference in ingredients gives it a "dual personality" in terms of health benefits: raw tea has outstanding antioxidant capacity, while cooked tea has a significant lipid-lowering effect.12
The tearing of the price system
- Raw tea: In 2024, the price of loose tea from Bingdao Laozhai Ancient Tree Tea will reach 40,000 yuan/kg, with an annual appreciation rate of over 20%11
- Ripe tea: Classic products such as Dayi’s “7542” have become “hard currency” in the financial market due to their aging potential.
Younger consumer groups
Consumers born in the 1980s and 1990s account for 62% of the total. They pay more attention to the "social attributes" and "healthy labels" of Pu'er tea, which has promoted the rise of innovative products such as Xiaotuo tea and cold brew tea.11
Breakthrough in the international market
Pu'er tea is labeled as "Oriental Mysterious Tea" in the European and American markets, and its export volume will exceed 120 million US dollars in 2024. Among them, cooked tea is the most popular due to its concept of "natural lipid-lowering agent".10
Limitations of Traditional Classification
The Chinese tea classification system (green tea, black tea, oolong tea, yellow tea, white tea, dark tea) is based on processing technology, but Pu'er tea's "post-fermentation" is different from both the "one-time fermentation" of dark tea and the "full fermentation" of black tea.”5
Industry Standards Game
- Domestic: The 2016 Pu'er Tea National Standard clarified its independent status and emphasized the dual attributes of “geographical indication + process characteristics”2 。
- International: ISO 20715 classifies cooked tea as black tea and raw tea as green tea, triggering a collective protest by Yunnan tea companies7
A new perspective on academic research
The 2024 China Pu'er Tea Industry Development Report points out that the microbial communities of Pu'er tea (such as Eurotium coronatum) have unique metabolic pathways, and it is recommended to establish a "post-fermented tea" category.8
Scientific Basis for Lipid-Lowering and Weight-Loss
A study by the Saint-Antoine Medical School in France confirmed that Pu'er ripe tea can reduce cholesterol by 20%, and its theabrownin is three times more efficient in activating lipase than ordinary black tea.12
Molecular mechanism of anti-aging
Yunnan Agricultural University found that the EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate) in Pu'er tea has 20 times the ability to scavenge free radicals as vitamin C and can delay cell aging.9
The guardian of intestinal health
The latest research in 2025 shows that tea polysaccharides in Pu'er tea can regulate intestinal flora and alleviate obesity-related metabolic syndrome9
From the bells of the caravans on the ancient Tea Horse Road to the international standard game field, Pu'er tea has completed the transformation from "crude tea from the border" to "world famous tea" in a thousand years. Its identity dispute is essentially a collision between the traditional classification system and modern industrial innovation. When we re-examine this cup of tea in 2025, we will find that it has long surpassed the framework of the "six major tea categories" and has become a pioneer of Chinese tea culture going global - because real good tea never needs to be defined.
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- ISO 20715:2023. Tea classification. 链接
