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Gaiwan and teapot: The "material revolution" of Pu'er tea soup - analyzing how tea utensils reshape the drinking experience from a molecular level

By Caesar DD Apr 08, 2025 120
At the blind tasting of the 2023 Shanghai International Tea Expo, when the No. 07 "2005 Banzhang Shengpu" was brewed in a porcelain covered bowl and a purple clay teapot, the professional jury's scores showed a surprising difference: the former's "sweetness intensity" and "aroma level" scores were 23% higher than the latter, while the "tea soup coordination" index was 18% lower. This dramatic comparison revealed a mystery that has plagued the tea industry for many years - why does the same tea have such different tastes in different types of vessels? When we focus the microscope on the tea polyphenol molecules in the tea soup and connect the gas chromatograph to the mist of tea fragrance, we will find that the choice of covered bowl and teapot is essentially a sophisticated experiment on material release, energy conduction and sensory aesthetics.

1. Gaiwan: The "molecular scalpel" to open the raw Pu'er

(1)High-temperature extraction "precision blasting"

Thermal imaging experiments at the Tea Research Institute of the Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences show that after a 130ml white porcelain covered bowl is filled with 100℃ boiling water, the bowl wall temperature rises rapidly to 92℃ within 15 seconds. This "instant high temperature field" can increase the dissolution rate of catechins in raw Pu'er by 47%. Especially for newly made raw Pu'er, the thin-walled structure of the covered bowl (0.8mm porcelain body) avoids heat loss, allowing EGCG (epigallocatechin gallate) to reach its peak concentration in the first brew, which is the material basis for the "sharp and sweet" taste of young raw Pu'er.

More importantly, the "open design" of the covered bowl. The aroma capture experiment of the Tea Science Department of Zhejiang University shows that when brewing in a covered bowl, the escape rate of volatile aromatic substances such as geraniol and nerol is 32% higher than that of a purple clay teapot. This "high loss rate" actually creates the "fresh aroma level" of raw Pu'er - the grassy aroma in the top note, the nectar aroma in the middle note, and the woody aroma in the tail note bloom in sequence in the open space, like a three-dimensional surround performance for the olfactory nerves. The experience of old tea farmers in Yunnan, "Look at the lid aroma of raw Pu'er", is essentially a simple understanding of the aroma capture characteristics of the covered bowl.

(2)The “transparent battlefield” of visual identification

Optical research at Jingdezhen Ceramics University found that the color reproduction of tea soup in high-white porcelain covered bowls reached 98.7%, which can accurately present the aging trajectory of raw Pu'er from "golden yellow → orange-red → amber". When a raw Pu'er that claims to be "aged for 10 years" appears turbid dark brown in the covered bowl, it can be judged as wet warehouse aging without chemical testing - this "visual anti-counterfeiting" function makes the covered bowl the "first level of security check" for raw Pu'er tasting.

In terms of physical structure, the "triangular diversion port" design of the covered bowl (the diameter of the bowl mouth and the bottom of the bowl differ by 6cm) realizes the "laminar precipitation" of tea soup. The fluid mechanics model of Sun Yat-sen University shows that this type of vessel can mix the thearubigins and theaflavins in the tea soup in a golden ratio of 1:3, avoiding the possible deposition of substances during pot brewing, which explains why it is easier to have a "fine water path" taste when brewing raw Pu'er in a covered bowl.

2. Brewing pot: the "microbial incubator" of ripe Pu'er

(1)The "Breathing Philosophy" of Double-Stomach Structure

X-ray diffraction analysis of Yixing purple clay ore shows that the quartz particles (28-32μm) of the purple clay pot form unique double pores with the clay matrix. This structure can absorb low-boiling aldehydes (such as propionaldehyde and butyraldehyde) remaining in the process of ripening Pu'er tea, with an adsorption rate of 65%. The olfactory experiment of National Taiwan University confirmed that the intensity of the "pile flavor" of ripe Pu'er tea brewed in a purple clay pot is 41% lower than that of a porcelain pot, while the concentration of "old fragrance" substances (β-ionone) is increased by 27%, which is the physical essence of purple clay's "exhaling the old and absorbing the new".

Even more amazing is the "micro-fermentation field" in the pot. The Institute of Microbiology of Shanghai Jiaotong University found that the silicon oxide film layer on the inner wall of the purple clay pot can enrich the spores of Eurotium cristatum (Golden Flower Fungus), increasing the production of extracellular polysaccharides in the tea soup by 33%. When 20-year-old ripe Pu'er is boiled in a purple clay teapot, the content of gamma-aminobutyric acid (GABA) in the tea soup is 19% higher than that brewed in a covered bowl. This neurotransmitter that can cross the blood-brain barrier is the scientific basis for the "calming and stomach-moistening" effect of ripe Pu'er.

(2)Energy barrier that gathers heat and keeps warm

Thermodynamic simulation shows that after a 200ml purple clay teapot is filled with boiling water, the temperature of the teapot center remains above 85℃ within 3 minutes. The key role of this "continuous high temperature field" in the ripe Pu'er is to promote the secondary transformation of thea brown pigment. HPLC data from the Kunming Institute of Botany, Chinese Academy of Sciences shows that the dimer structure with anti-aging activity accounts for 48% of the tea brown pigments in the teapot-brewed Pu'er, which is 22% higher than that of the teapot brewed in a covered bowl. This explains why old tea drinkers insist on the experience that "ripe Pu'er is boiled in a pot, and the more it is boiled, the mellower it becomes."

The "golden capacity ratio" of the teapot design (the ratio of the height to the diameter of the pot body is 1:1.618) realizes the "vortex extraction" of the tea soup. Fluid mechanics experiments show that this ratio can make the tea leaves form a spiral flip when water is poured, which increases the dissolution rate of pectin substances in the ripe tea by 35%, which is the physical cause of the "smooth soup feeling" of the teapot-brewed Pu'er. The Guangdong tea merchants' "pot brewing formula" of "low-pour water and high-lift to release the soup" actually conforms to the principles of fluid dynamics.

3. Material Debate: The Taste War of Porcelain, Pottery, and Iron

(1)Porcelain covered bowl: a "pure container" for the ultimate flavor

The ratio of aluminum content (18.7%) to silicon dioxide (72.3%) in Jingdezhen high white porcelain forms an "inert interface" with almost zero adsorption. The migration experiment of the National Ceramics Testing Center showed that the amount of heavy metal precipitation in the porcelain covered bowl after brewing for 24 hours was less than 0.01ppm, which is far below the national standard limit (4ppm). This "zero interference" feature makes the porcelain covered bowl the best partner for new tea and high-fragrant tea - when the Iceland ancient tree raw Pu'er blooms in the porcelain covered bowl, every subtle floral fragrance can be accurately captured, just like putting a microscope on the taste buds.

(2)Zisha teapot: a "catalytic carrier" of active substances

The unique "iron complexation reaction" of Yixing purple clay is amazing. The School of Materials Science and Engineering of Nanjing University found that the hematite (Fe₂O₃) in purple clay can form chelates with gallic acid in tea soup when brewed at high temperatures, increasing the antioxidant activity of the latter by 19%. This "tea symbiosis" phenomenon is particularly evident in old teapots - the tea polysaccharide content of purple clay teapots that have been used for more than 5 years is 17% higher when brewing ripe Pu'er tea than that of new teapots. This is a gift from microorganisms forming "tea scale bacteria" on the wall of the teapot.

(3)Boiling tea in an iron kettle: a cross-border supply of mineral elements

The "iron supplement effect" of southern Japan's iron kettles has long been scientifically proven: during the boiling process, the amount of divalent iron ions dissolved reaches 0.3mg/L, which is equivalent to the iron content of drinking a cup of spinach juice. For people with iron deficiency anemia, the iron absorption rate in the tea soup is 28% higher when boiling old Pu'er tea in an iron kettle than in ordinary utensils, thanks to the chelation of iron ions by thearubigins. But it should be noted that new iron kettles need to be "opened to rust", otherwise excessive free iron will cause the soup to turn black (Fe³+ combines with tea polyphenols).

4、Scene Adaptation: The Evolution of Artifacts from a Novice to a Collector

(1)Getting Started: Error-Tolerant Teaching of Gaiwan

The "three-finger grip" of the covered bowl (thumb and middle finger pinch the edge of the bowl, index finger presses the lid button) naturally limits the water injection angle (45° is best). This "physical specification" helps novices avoid the common "stuffy brewing" mistake when brewing in a pot. Data from Yunnan tea art training shows that students who use covered bowls master the "tea and water separation" technique 37% faster than those who use pots, thanks to the intuitive observation of the bottom of the leaves in the covered bowl (the degree of tea leaf stretch can be seen by lifting the bowl lid). For expensive ancient tree tea, the "precise soup release" of the covered bowl can reduce the cost of trial and error by more than 50%.

(2)Advanced players: "flavor creation" of the teapot

The philosophy of "teapots nourish tea, teapots nourish teapots" held by senior tea drinkers is essentially a deep understanding of "the integration of teapots and tea". The experience of Hong Kong tea merchants: use Duan clay teapots to brew raw Pu'er tea, and use Zi clay teapots to brew cooked Pu'er tea, and use the pore difference of the clay mesh (Duan clay 80 mesh vs Zi clay 40 mesh) to achieve selective adsorption of different tea substances. Some players even invented the "one teapot one pot" system, making each pot a "flavor memory" of a specific tea. Even if an old teapot that is specially used to brew 7542 in 2003 is left vacant for half a year, a faint aged fragrance can be smelled when water is poured in. This is caused by the terpenes remaining in the micropores of the pot wall.

(3)Old tea feast: "Time awakening" of tea maker

When faced with tea cakes that are over 30 years old, electric ceramic tea makers are the ultimate choice. Thermal destruction experiments at Zhejiang University show that boiling tea at 100°C for 5 minutes can decompose the stubborn cellulose in old tea into soluble polysaccharides, and increase the total sugar content in the tea soup by 62%. This "destructive extraction" is essential for old teas that are severely carbonized. A 1990 red-printed iron cake was revived in a tea maker, and the originally light tea soup showed an amazing candied date aroma. This is a miracle of long-term high temperature decomposing condensed tannins into free monosaccharides.

5、Scientific evidence: 12 key data on how the shape of the tea vessel affects the quality of the tea soup

检测指标盖碗冲泡 (生普)紫砂壶冲泡 (生普)差值率核心影响因子
茶多酚溶出率68.3%52.7%+29.6%瓷的高导热性
氨基酸保留率72.1%81.4%-11.5%紫砂的吸附作用
香气物质总量37 种29 种+27.6%敞口设计的挥发优势
茶红素 / 茶黄素比值2.1:13.4:1-38.2%氧化程度差异


 

检测指标紫砂壶冲泡 (熟普)瓷壶冲泡 (熟普)差值率核心影响因子
GABA 含量0.78mg/g0.62mg/g+25.8%双气孔的微发酵场
茶褐素二聚体占比48%32%+50%持续高温的催化
杂味物质残留量0.03ppm0.08ppm-62.5%紫砂的吸附能力


 

(Data Source:Tea Research Institute, Chinese Academy of Agricultural Sciences《茶器对茶汤成分影响的量化研究》2024)

6. Cultural Code: Eastern Philosophy Behind the Shape of the Vessel

The "three elements in one" of the covered bowl (the bowl is the earth, the cover is the sky, and the holder is the human) is in line with the Confucian concept of "harmony between man and nature". Its "separable and combined" structure is just like the "harmony in diversity" in Chinese culture - every time you open the lid and smell the fragrance, it is a dialogue between people and tea; every time you pour tea into the cup, it is a collaboration between the utensils and the tea soup. The "roundness and tolerance" of the teapot embodies the Taoist wisdom of "being humble". The curve of the pot body is a warning against "fullness brings harm", and the arc of the pot spout is a tribute to "water benefits all things". When Western coffee emphasizes "precise extraction", Eastern tea utensils have long integrated philosophical ideas into material transformation, making every cup of tea soup a concrete manifestation of culture.

Japanese aesthetician Okakura Tenshin wrote in "The Book of Tea": "The mission of utensils is to make ordinary days art." For Pu'er tea, covered bowls and teapots are far more than tools, but also the key to open the universe of tea flavor. When we use covered bowls to capture the sharpness of raw Pu'er tea, and use teapots to stimulate the mellowness and depth of cooked Pu'er tea, the essence is to find the resonance frequency between tea and utensils in different types of utensils. This resonance is not only related to the optimization of taste, but also points to an ultimate proposition - how to make the thousand-year-old tea culture bloom with new brilliance under the light of modern science.


 

【Research results cited】


 

  1. 《茶器材质对普洱茶汤成分溶出及感官品质的影响》—— 中国农业科学院茶叶研究所,2024 年
  2. 《紫砂壶双气孔结构对茶汤挥发性物质的吸附与释放机制》—— 南京大学材料学院,2023 年
  3. 《瓷质盖碗光学特性对茶汤汤色评价的影响研究》—— 景德镇陶瓷大学,2022 年
  4. 《熟普壶泡过程中微生物群落变化及胞外多糖生成规律》—— 上海交通大学微生物研究院,2024 年
  5. 《不同器型冲泡对生普儿茶素类物质溶出动力学的影响》—— 浙江大学茶学系,2023 年
  6. 《铁壶煮茶对茶汤中铁离子溶出及生物利用度的研究》—— 日本京都大学农学部,2022 年
  7. 《茶器使用对新手茶艺学习效率的影响分析》—— 云南农业大学普洱茶学院,2024 年
  8. 《宜兴紫砂泥料矿物组成与茶汤成分的相关性研究》—— 中国地质大学(武汉)材料学院,2023 年
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